11/6/2015 – 11/10/2015, Beaufort, NC

Friday, 11/6/15, was a very warm, sunny day, although we heard a storm was coming. We motored across the Neuse River and all the way to Beaufort. We really wanted to use the newly fixed jib, but the wind was light, and on the nose, so we couldn’t.

Sign along the waterway, "Lee, will you marry me?"
We saw the same sign last year. I hope the signmaker is not still waiting for an answer.

By 4:25 PM, we landed in the Town Creek Anchorage East, at Beaufort NC, among the sunken and derelict boats, and the live-aboard boats with barking dogs. We were within sight and sound of bridge construction, and had constant takeoff noise from the very close-by airport. Some anchorages are serene, others are outstandingly beautiful, this one, not so much! At least the dinghy dock was very close.

Derelict, sunken and liveaboard boats in the anchorage.

Other cruisers in the anchorage, bridge construction.

The next morning, Saturday, 11/7/15, we took our bikes to that dinghy dock and rode to town. The ride was long, because we had to detour around a missing bridge, but it was flat and easy. We found our way to Front Street, which runs along Taylor Creek. Taylor Creek is another anchorage, which is narrow and has a high current and very little space for additional boats, but it’s much closer to the downtown area. It also has views of Carrot Island, and the Rachel Carson Reserve, with wild horses grazing on it. Chuck said about the reserve, “What was her name, Kate Spade?” For those as confused as Chuck, Kate Spade is a current clothing and accessories designer; Rachel Carson (1907-1964), on the other hand, was a scientist (Marine Biologist) and an early environmentalist and nature writer.  We saw some wild horses from Front Street, but they were too far away to photograph.

Rachel Carson (not Kate Spade)

We visited the Visitor’s Center, picked up an enormous éclair pastry and pecan cookies at the bakery at the Spouter In, had coffee at a coffee house, and biked around the streets, viewing historic houses.  Went back to the Spouter Inn for a beautiful lunch, visited a second Visitor’s Center, and then biked south most of the length of Front Street, past lovely beach houses. 

Outsized eclairs

Historic houses of Beaufort

Early for lunch at the Spouter Inn (soon after the room was filled)

One of the beach houses had an elderly gentleman sitting outside.  He yelled, “Are you on a sailboat?” We said, “Yes”, he said, “Stop by on your way back, I want to hear about your trip.” I said “OK, we will.” We tried to, on our return trip north on Front Street. We looked, but didn’t see him again. It would have been fun to stop and visit, and to hear his story. Maybe on our return trip north, in the spring!

We then biked the long way back to the boat before dark. We can easily see why so many people love to visit Beaufort. Our first stop there was very enjoyable, and considerably less costly for us as cruisers than it is for the visitors who come by car and stay in a historic B&B or small hotel. We’ll stop again, there are things to see that we didn’t get to.

Saturday night the promised storm arrived. It was very windy and the boat switched direction in our small space, so we needed to pull up the anchor and reset it, so that we would still be far enough away from the other occupants and nearby private docks. These anchor problems seem to only happen very late at night! This one was at 12:30 AM. The wind was blowing 15 kts and gusting to 25 kts. I stayed up for hours, checking the anchor to make sure we didn’t drag. Luckily I was reading an engaging book, Slipknot, by Linda Greenlaw (writer of many marine related books, and a sea captain). Note to self: download an anchor watch app next time we have access to free wifi!

Sunday, 11/8/15, lay day at the Beaufort Town Creek Anchorage, in the rain. Stayed on the boat all day, cooking, reading and writing. Wanted to visit with Bob Osborn who was nearby on (new) s/v Pandora, but we were afraid to leave our boat in the wind and rain.

Monday, 11/9/15, still raining. Cooler, but not very cold. Another lay day at the Beaufort Town Creek Anchorage. Moved the anchor again. Baked bread, wrote to friends in Sweden, did other cooking, reading and writing. Chuck shelled pecans. Planning to move tomorrow. We need to fill up on water and fuel.

Early morning mist in the anchorage

Homemade Swedish Limpa bread

Tuesday, 11/10/15, up early, anxious to get going. Engine on 7:45 AM. While hoisting the anchor, a rain shower! Hoping to make the 8 AM opening of the Beaufort Channel Bridge. Called the bridge tender. There is no 8 AM opening! The first opening is 8:30 AM. Circled around near the bridge, waiting for 8:30, in the grey and drizzle. Spotted our friends on s/v Smitty, s/v Callista and s/v Hullaballoo in the outer Town Creek anchorage, near the bridge.

Beaufort Channel Bridge

Early morning meeting of the construction crew

Lots of activity around the construction

At last, our opening

At 8:30 AM we passed through the bridge and continued, with rain on and off, and light wind. We were accompanied by dolphins along the bottom of Radio Island. In Bogue Sound, with wind on the beam, we were finally able to take out the newly repaired jib, which looks beautiful. Laura is so meticulous and so caring in the way that she does sail repair!

The wind picked up and we reefed the sail. Soon after, it picked up too much (gusting to 30 kts) and we furled the sail. Rain continued on and off until noon, when it finally stopped. Then the sun came out, drying everything up again.

We stopped for fuel and met the occupants of m/v Amalia, one of the powerboats who had passed us earlier, at the fuel dock. By 5 PM we were anchored at Mile Hammock Bay, at Camp LeJeune, NC, just before dark.

Mile Hammock Bay anchorage, full of boats, seen from the ICW

In the morning, 11/11/15, almost all of the boats left before we did. One that was getting ready to leave as we passed was a catamaran from Canada that we’ve seen several times since, but still have not met. And we don’t know the vessel name. And when we don’t know a vessel’s name, we name it ourselves. So we call this one “Telephone booth catamaran” or “Telephone booth Canadian” for the unique little covered steering station, which was quite likely crafted by this clever Canadian.

"Telephone Booth Catamaran" in the Mile Hammock Bay Anchorage

This anchorage is inside the military base of Camp Lejeune. We thought it was quit fitting that we were there on Veteran's Day.


P.S. Reminder - Double click on any image to see a larger view.